Tuesday 6 October 2015

3 makeup no-no's in the office


Too much? How so? 

This one's controversial I know but I bet we can all immediately think of someone at work who, through no fault of their own, just hasn't quite got it right in the makeup department.

Know your audience
I attended a meeting last week at a corporate location in the city and as I listened to the various points of view coming from the people around the table I couldn't help but notice certain things. For example, the lady who was dressed in something entirely innapropirate for her age (I could see what she was trying to do but to me it just looked unprofessional), or the lady who was wearing a bit of makeup (tick) but the wrong shades for her skin tone.

Granted, as a makeup artist, I'm bound to pick up on makeup mishaps more so than the average person. But it did get me thinking: Even if on a subconscious level, just how much of a distraction is a makeup mishap?

And when it comes to office makeup, what are the three 'no no's?




1. Excessive Shine 
One woman in particular had lots of intelligent and insightful things to say but I. Could. Not. Stop. Staring. At. Her. Overly. Shiny. T-zone. *shocked emoji*

Excessive shine is not just the bane of those with oily skin. It has been known to afflict even the driest of skins after a long day in the office - or when too much makeup has been applied - but with the today's formulas there's absolutely zero excuse not to be able to keep shine at bay.

Blot Away
If you're finding your t-zone is shiny mid-way through the day or just before an important meeting, a quick trip to the bathroom with some blot papers (like these) or a blot powder (such as this or this) will do the trick. Blot papers are brilliant because they absorb perspiration without upsetting your makeup and blot powder, well, it does what the name suggests.

Preparation Is Key
If you were born with naturally oily skin (lucky you! You will age BE-AUTIFULLY!) I'd recommend investing in an oil-free foundation for work*. Benefit's Flawless Oxygen Wow foundation dries wonderfully matte, and, whislt not strictly oil-free, I've seen YSL's Fusion Ink Foundation work wonders on oily skin.

*I'm not suggesting here that you wear a medium coverage foundation to the office every single day (I so NEED to do my blog post on combining tinted moisturiser and foundation!!!) but on the important days of the working calendar (presentations, meeting clients, date night after work etc).

Layer Up
Remember too that what you wear under your foundation can make a big difference. Opting for a moisturising lotion instead of a cream, and/or an oil free primer before you apply your foundation, will help to keep your makeup fresh and matte.




2. Get Your Brows Right
In case you've been asleep under a rock the past five years, brows are big news. And not the sparse sixties brow our mothers, aunties (and depending how old you are, grandmothers) sported, but the big, bushy, eat-your-heart-out-Brooke-Shields kind of brow. Note here: Only Cara can get away with the above. Wearing brows that bold to the office won't scream 'Listen to me, I have such interesting thing to say!' but will leave people wondering how you don't name them when you look in the mirror every morning.

There are few things more distracting than an odd-shaped or over-grown brow. Think:

  • too thin - well, you can't really go too thick these days. If you're struggling to grow yours try castor oil.
  • monobrow - rare in women but occasionally it happens. Deal with it. I love Blink bars. They'll be nice to you and they apply soothing anti-inflammatory lotions at the end.
  • brow makeup that's too dark - see: Made In Essex. Probably one of the most common mistakes I see women making after over-plucking. Powder is much more subtle than pencil. Invest in a decent brow brush such as this one.

Ask any beauty editor worth their salt and they'll tell you a groomed natural brow is instantly anti-ageing. Of course, wearing any kind of makeup is a balancing act and the moment we darken our lips or eyes we feel we need something in our brows, but less is always more.

I'm a huge fan of brow mascaras. Not only are they unbelievably convenient (a quick brush through and you're done) but the shades are improving every year. If you're blonde try this and if you're brunette/dark try this.




3. 'Young' Eye Shadow Colour
My heart sinks whenever I see someone wearing bright eye-shadow to the office because it's obvious they clearly enjoy wearing makeup. But any kind of brightly coloured eye-shadow is, I'm afraid, a big no-no. Unless of course you're under the age of 25, have unbelievably clear skin, wear very little makeup other than a flash of bright eye shadow (see above) and work in a creative industry. For the over 30, mere mortals among us it's simply a tricky nut to crack and one not worth attempting.

I'm not saying do not dabble with eye colour but be subtle. A wash of lilac eye shadow can look stunning on someone with green eyes, but unless you're about to head off for lunch with the girls in a floaty summer dress and with very little other makeup on, I'd say stick to neutral eyes.

The best work-day eye for me is a wash of beige or 'greige' (depending on your skin tone) cream eye-shadow, a chocolate brown or grey liner and two quick coats of mascara. Save actual colour for your cheeks or lips (never both).

If you're feeling decadent and it's the season for brights try bringing a pop of colour into your look in other ways. A bright scarf or a pop of colour on the nails but be warned: bright nail varnish in a corporate office, especially on women 'over a certain age', can look cheap and untrustworthy.

The shape of your nails can also make a big difference. Bright colours work far better on shorter, square or squoval nails whilst nudes suit slightly more rounded, longer nails.

In love with the latest coloured eye liner? By all means, work a bit of it into your look but remember the mantra: less is most definitely more. Whenever I wear a coloured liner to a meeting I always soften it by smudging it with a little of my trusty brown eye shadow (MAC Omega if you must know).


The names of individuals mentioned herein, as well as the name of the company in the City, have been deliberately omitted to protect people's privacy.

Image credits: 
Aly Hazelwood, My-Management
Renee Zellweger, Reuters
Cara Delevigne, Jason Wu Spring, 2013
Marc by Marc Jacobs, 2014

Monday 7 September 2015

Strobing: How to get killer cheekbones without going near a bronzer



Wow, everyone and his dog seem to be banging on about STROBING this month. Yes, you did read that correctly. Strobing is an official makeup term that is providing light relief in response to contouring fatigue.

What is it?
Strobing is essentially the yin to contouring's yang. A way to sculpt the cheekbones without bronzer (ideal for those who feel they've seen one too many paint-by-number Kim Kardashian looks).

Also referred to as highlighting or illuminating, the inventors of strobing (so they claim) are that well-known powerhouse of colour, MAC, although it's highly possible the technique was developed decades before by another makeup artist/s. Whatever the case, MAC's cult Strobe Cream* (£24.50 full size or £10 travel edition) is seriously worth checking out.

Strategic strobing
Strobing (highlighting) is all about creating the appearance of good lighting by highlighting the areas of the face where light naturally hits. Think...


CHEEKBONES                                                                    
                                                                                             TEMPLES 
                               ARCH UNDER THE BROW            
                                                                                                                            CUPID'S BOW


...You can also highlight the nose and forehead but I'd be sparing with these areas as a shiny nose and forehead can look sweaty in flash photography, even when you're dry as a bone.

Places to avoid when strobing: cheeks (Shiny cheeks = Santa. Not a great look).

* MAC Strobe can look ashy on deep skin tones. Please see my note below re. the right shades for highlighting all skin tones.

Strobing powders: Hourglass (left), Kevin Aucoin (right)

Clockwise from left: MAC Strobe Cream; Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow (more of a primer 
but you can wear it on top of makeup); Clarins Beauty Flash Balm (cult product, again, 
wear as a primer or on top); Kryolan 'Cashmere'/Illusion 'Silk'

MAC Strobe
The choice is yours
Your strobe or highlighting product will come in one of two forms: cream or powder. 

Cream: 
Apply a little to the back of your hand then mix it using the flat of your ring finger. Gently pat the product onto the areas you wish to highlight.

Powder: 
Use a fan or tapered brush (two examples below).

All age types can wear both cream or powder but it's been my experience that some highlighting powders can end up sitting in fine lines on more mature skins (and by that I mean if you're over 30). That's the reason I love the Hourglass Ambient Lighting series (£38) as the powders are so delicate on the skin and never feel heavy, even when I apply several layers.


Kryolan fan brush (left, £10.50), Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush (right, £35)

Different shades of strobe
It's not a one-shade-suits-all game with strobing so it's important you choose the right shade for your skin tone. Here's a quick guide:

  • PALE: silvery / champagne / light
  • OLIVE: pink / golden hues
  • INDIAN: as above but add to that 'coral' hue
  • DEEP: golden / deeper coral / warm (avoid silver which will look ashy)


Is strobing appropriate for work?
Absolutely, but as with all business makeup it's important to strike the right balance.  I'd opt for a low shimmer powder that's 2-3 shades lighter than your natural skin tone or a cream/lotion of the same shade. Dab/apply only very lightly and avoid the nose and forehead altogether.


Image: Pixiwoo
The strobing jackpot
There is one product in my kit - Glamcor's Glamor Glow Ultra Sheer Skin Brightener (£30) - that simply cannot be surpassed when it comes to highlighting. It works brilliantly on both younger and more mature skins (particularly on mature skin because it doesn't settle into fine lines). It comes in a light liquid form that's easy to blend and layer up.
I. Absolutely. LOVE. IT. (Word of warning: This one's an absolute pain to track down...but if you can get hold of some it's worth it! Main stockists now seem to be States side).

Practice on the cheap
Applying a little rich moisturiser such as Nivea cream to your cheekbones, over the top of your makeup, is a great way to practice. The really dewy photos you see in magazines? Makeup artists have generally reached for Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream or a face oil but this can be impractical in everyday life as the oiliness either doesn't sit well on top of makeup or will easily slide off as the day progresses (not a good look, particularly in a meeting!). A good strobing cream product will dry quite matte on the skin whilst leaving a subtle 'shine'.

Do you have a favourite highlighter? Or does the idea of highlighting scare you? 

Wednesday 2 September 2015

Makeup + cancer: The one tip women going through chemo really want




If you read my post last week on Makeup + Depression you're probably thinking 'Jeez Louise' (yup, I'm on a roll ;)...but hear me out. This is important.

I want to share a conversation I had recently with a wonderful lady who's undergoing chemo.

The lady in question runs a B&B in Guernsey (which, by the way, was the best god darn B&B I've ever stayed in. To protect her privacy I shan't mention her name, or the name of the B&B, but if you're thinking about visiting Guernsey anytime soon, inbox me!).

Laura* and I got to talking after a delicious breakfast**. I knew she was undergoing chemo because she wore a scarf tied several times around her head and had no eyebrows (and I suspected no lashes although was never close enough to see).

Not that you would know Laura had cancer...she was one of the most inspiring women I've ever met.

* Not her real name
** Full English, fresh coffee, homemade lemon curd(!!) served in a crystal condiment thingy (technical term), muesli and Guernsey milk which, quite frankly, should be illegal.




How much makeup is too much?
Laura and I soon got chatting about makeup (she'd sweetly enquired what I did for a living) and I told her I'd volunteered a couple of years ago for Look Good Feel Better - the charity that provides hair, makeup and beauty lessons for women undergoing treatment for cancer. She'd also experienced a session as a participant.

I did two sessions with the charity and after each one I remember feeling inspired and confused; inspired because the sessions were full of the most extraordinary, talented, strong, beautiful, broken-but-not-beaten women; and confused because the makeup look we taught involved learning something like thirteen (or was it ten?) steps: skin, base, concealing, eye shadow, eye liner, brow pencil, bronzer, blush, lip liner, lipstick...and so on.

Is this what women undergoing chemo really want? To learn how to do a full face of makeup? Laura's response to my recounting the steps was most humbling.

The reality
Laura said she can map how she'll be feeling according to the weeks pre- and post- her cancer treatment. Week one (post-chemo) is spent desperately trying to muster the energy to get out of bed (no mean feat for a lady who runs a busy B&B!). Week two sees the arrival of a bit more energy but makeup is far down the list of priorities. Week three (the week before the next chemo treatment) and she's just starting to feel like herself again. Chemo and repeat.

"I'd rather concentrate on my skin during chemo, not my makeup....because when my skin's looking good, I feel good'.




Skin deep
When a person's body is being hammered by chemicals one of the first places this will show (in addition to hair loss) is their skin.

Rather than covering up very dry, itchy, red and sometimes flaky skin with makeup it seems what women with cancer would much rather focus on are the products that will help to calm their skin and edge it back to looking more vital. I'm not saying LGFB classes don't teach good skincare, they certainly cover this at the beginning of their sessions, but if this is the one thing women (and men) with cancer can find the energy to do during chemo then I wonder whether there should be more of a focus on skincare and less on makeup?

Little makeup, huge difference 
I can imagine that, like Laura, once a person's skin is feeling calmer (less red and more hydrated), applying one, maybe two items of makeup would feel doable.

If I were to pick three makeup items I thought would give someone going through cancer a little bit more confidence during treatment I'd have to say:
  1. A waxy brow pencil (or Anastasia Dipbrow Pomade which is regularly hailed by Beauty Bloggers although I'm yet to try it)
  2. Concealer (preferably with a slight peachy hue to counteract dark circles (e.g. Bobbi Brown Tinted Eye Brightener which has a touch of corrector in it to help tone down dark cricles)
  3. Creme blush (Stila's Convertible Colour would be perfect on dry skin as it's lovely and hydrating. Tip: Be sure to tone down any visible redness on the cheeks first with a light tinted moisturiser or concealer/foundation).

More skincare tips
If you'd like to know more about how to look after your skin during cancer I really liked this post. It mentions things like choosing hypoallergenic products over ones that are overly perfumed and advises when to apply products after washing (within 3 minutes is good apparently!).

Meeting Laura inspired this post and really opened my eyes to the kinds of 'beauty' tips women living with cancer are really after. I hope this post will inspire you to talk to your friends or perhaps someone you know, male or female, who's currently undergoing chemo and could do with some skincare or light makeup tips.

As always, thank you for reading.

Please note: It is not my intention with this post to disrespect or to criticise the wonderful work Look Good Feel Better undergoes and the difference it makes to the lives of those dealing with cancer.

Image credits and with grateful thanks to:

Erin (surname unknown):
http://www.photosensitive.com/breast-cancer-survivors.php

Claire Featherstone
http://www.chemoheadwear.co.uk

Sharon Blynn
http://blog.suburbanturban.co.uk/hair-loss/how-i-lost-my-hair-and-found-myself-a-guest-blog-by-sharon-blynn/

Wednesday 26 August 2015

Makeup + depression: 5 products that never fail to give me a lift




It's rare we talk about makeup within the context of depression but here goes...

I've suffered from mood swings for a very long time and even though depression and other mental illnesses such as bi-polar have far less stigma these days, it doesn't make writing about them any less difficult *deep breath*.

I'm lucky enough to have the most unbelievable support around me but ultimately it's my battle. Anything - no matter how trivial - that can edge me even an inch out of a mood, is a massive bonus.

Now, I need to insert a massive caveat here because there will be people reading this who will balk at the idea of even being able to get out of bed during depressive episodes let alone put any slap on (and having personally come very close to this I can empathise). I'm talking more about the days when we're up and doing stuff but when life feels like a bit of an uphill struggle, like we're wading through mud. It's on these days that I really notice the effect makeup has on me.

Today I want to share five products with you that consistently boost my mood, even if it's just 10%. And the great news is you can wear them on their own.




Instant glow
I've blogged loads about Estée Lauder's Sheer Tint Release but I will bang on about it some more! Hurrah! I. Love. It. If you're reasonably pale and/or freckly like me, seriously, go try it. 

I've always believed wearing a foundation or tinted moisturiser that's slightly warmer than my natural skin tone is CATEGORICALLY WRONG and that the best way to 'warm up' the skin is to contour it, however, this is the one exception to the rule. When I apply this moisturising, SPF and tinted product in one it is warmer than my natural skin tone but because of its sheer texture, it never looks like a mask.

If I'm having a chilled day I'll wear a thin layer of it all over (blending a little down my neck), a sweep of mascara and a tinted balm. If I've got meetings I'll wear a thin layer but will overlay my medium coverage foundation on top, blending lightly down the t-zone and outwards. This provides a natural yet considered base for the rest of my makeup.

Get it here.





Feeling human again
Another one that never fails to lift my mood is the extraordinary Chanel Les Beiges.

I've hesitated buying Chanel products for years (I once heard the rumour they were made in the same factory as Bourjois and then suddenly found it harder to justify the expense!) but now that I've experienced Les Beiges I can tell you, it's on a whole other level.

It smells divine (softly feminine with a hint of, is that apricot?) and comes with a super luxe brush applicator that makes contouring a cinch. The shade range is such that one can opt for a 'my-skin-but-ever-so-slightly-warmer', a far cry from the numerous taupe-grey matte bronzers on the market.

Not to mention the fact that owning a piece of Chanel makeup is, in itself, simply a joy. The packaging, the logo...I love seeing it peek out of my makeup bag.

Get it here.




Bright eyes
There's something about curling my lashes that makes me feel instantly better, even if I can't face wearing mascara that day. It's the way they lift and open my eyes. I feel instantly more awake, I look healthier and the process takes just 10 seconds.

Eyelash Curlers by Shu Uemura are the best. Get them here.





Colour therapy
It's not just seeing colour on my nails that has the ability to lift my mood but invariably the very act of painting them.

Whether I'm doing my nails myself at home or treating myself to a manicure, it's taking time out to pamper myself (e.g. rubbing oil into the cuticles, the having to just sit and 'be') that can noticeably have a calming effect. Depending on the day I can actually find the process quite meditative too, sometimes enabling me to tap into the creative part of my brain (which can get foggy if my mood is low).

I'm not brand loyal when it comes to nail varnish, it's more about the shade (and if I'm honest the name) that inspires me to try something new, but when it comes to a salon-quality finish I can't fault OPI or Color Club (the latter is excellent quality for the price).

As always, if painting your nails at home don't even think about starting without this!




Light touch
When you're feeling low, wearing anything bright on your lips can feel like a real challenge. For example, I know that when I'm really down the thought of wearing a bright red lip can make me feel nauseous, I guess because I feel it draws attention to me, attention I'd rather not have when I'm feeling under par.

Chantecaille's clever range of hydrating lipsticks called 'Lip Chic' effortlessly strike the right balance between feeling as if we've added a hush of colour but not too much that we feel self conscious. They're described as a 'glossy lipstick' but the feel of them, for me, is much more akin to tinted balm.

One of my favourite shades to wear when I'm down is Zinnia, a pinky-peach that reminds me a little of the old Fruit Salad sweets :) I'll happily wear it on its own or with a little tinted moisturiser (if my skin's feeling a bit blotchy).

I'll leave you with some wise words from my dear friend Claire who I never fail to hear in my head whenever I'm having a bad day:

"Get in that shower, put some lippie on and get out there'.

Thanks for reading xx

Saturday 15 August 2015

When is a pedi worth the money?




When is a beauty treatment worth it?

This is what I got to thinking on Thursday this week during a 
Cheekypedi with my baby sis. 

I rarely get pedicures, partly because I'm lucky enough to have a steady hand and regularly paint my nails and tootsies, but also because I often wonder whether they're worth the money? What seems to sway me in the end is a desire to just sit and be pampered!

But does pampering done well ever outweigh an under-par 
end result?

* Cheeky in both senses of the word ;)


Bliss!

Do come in 
I've visited Cheeky  the beauty parlour bit of Barber & Parlour on Redchurch St  twice before, both times to get manicures, and both were great. I really can't fault the staff or the location. The decor is really fun, has a 70's retro/Tracey Emin/old chemistry lab feel about it complete with neon signs and vintage stools. The pedi chairs were super comfortable if slightly too far from your neighbour to be able to hold a proper or private conversation (a real shame as I wanted to catch up with my sis).

All the staff we interacted with during out visit were noticeably welcoming and happy to chat which made such a difference. There's nothing worse than paying hard-earned money for a treatment only to be met with complete indifference or worse, a surly attitude (I've experienced both, many times, as I'm sure have you). 

The beautician who gave me my pedicure was refreshingly smiley, continually checking in with me throughout the treatment to see if I was comfortable, happy with the shape of my nails etc, which I really appreciated.




Introducing my baby sis (that's a bottle of 
water in the green bottle btw...not wine!)


How much are we talking?
You'll generally pay anywhere between £20 and £45 for a pedicure, depending on the location and venue. Cheeky charge £26, which, for the time I spent in the chair, felt about right. What was a shame though, and what prompted this post, was a disappointing end result.





What makes a perfect pedi?
I've had good and bad pedis before and this certainly wasn't bad...just not perfect. When you're paying £26 for someone to trim, shape, treat and paint your toes you generally want them to look even more brilliant than you could ever do yourself. But the evening of my pedi, checking my toes in the light, I noticed a few things I would have liked them to have done differently:
  • My toe nails weren't symmetrically cut or symmetrically painted which gives the impression they're different lengths – toe nails are, of course, naturally different sizes but a good pedicurist will cut them and then paint them so that they appear the same size, excluding the big toe (obvs).
  • I can still see remnants of my previous nail varnish  the colour I'd applied a few weeks ago, one of my summer faves, was still on when I arrived at my appointment (normally I'd remove it but forgot I still had it on). She spent time removing it prior to beginning the pedi but didn't get all of it off which meant it's still visible in several places, particularly at the sides of the nail and around the cuticle.
  • The colour doesn't cover the whole nail – I know plenty of manicurists who leave a good 1mm gap or more between the edge of the varnish and the sides of each nail. This approach can look great on hands (particularly when you want to visibly elongate your nails), but when it comes to toenails I think painting right up to the edges of each nail works best. This avoids the nails looking too small. I also noticed last night upon closer inspection that the second coat doesn't quite cover the first, particularly on the big toe nails which is a shame.
What she did do brilliantly was the cuticle work which I find hard to do on myself. The foot scrub and massage were also lovely (although I was hoping for more of a leg massage than I got. Some places will massage right up to the knee which feels divine).


Avec flash
Sans flash


Something blue
In spite of a less than perfect pedi I loved the colour I went for; a stunning metallic deep purplely-navy called Sapphire So Good, £7 (looks midnight blue under flash).

3 tips to guarantee a great pedi:
  1. Speak up – If you like a square, not so short nail, or for the smaller nails to appear roughly the same size, then say so! It helps to establish what you're after at the beginning. Don't assume they know what you like/want.
  2. Be friendly – You don't need to be super chatty if all you actually want is to read a magazine or have a snooze but a smile goes a long way.
  3. Opt for a shade you wouldn't normally wear – half the fun of having a pedicure is opting for something a little different. On my way to the salon I was half thinking about a lemon yellow shade but then decided against it as my right big toe is a bit bruised (I was worried a lighter colour would allow show through). As I ended up choosing a shade a world away from my usual Hollywood red or neon pink it felt extra special and in spite of the less than perfect application, I am loving the colour.
So there you have it. A pedi can be worth the investment but communication is key!

Do you have a favourite beauty treatment? Have you been disappointed in the past? What do you think is absolutely worth the money? I'd love to know...

Images: Barber & Parlour

Friday 7 August 2015

Everything you need to know about sunscreens (well, almost everything)





























Living in the UK I'm used to the sun being pretty darn temperamental ("She's out! Nope, she's gone back in again!" *sigh*) but sunscreens are a year-round topic I have long wanted to address on this blog.

Questions such as "should I be wearing sunscreen everyday, even in winter?" and "how do I know my sunscreen is working?" have prompted me to investigate.

For your reading pleasure I've written up a summary of my findings (time to grab a cuppa). Alternatively, if you'd like to cut straight to my favourite SPF products click here.

Before you read on
It's important you know there is a heck of a lot of conflicting information and opinion out there (researching this post has definitely lead to me wanting to tear my hair out!!). Whilst I don't pretend to have all the answers (far from it) it is my hope this post will at least prompt you to think about the ways in which you are currently protecting your skin and what changes you could make (today?tomorrow?!)...to be more sun safe.

The questions I aim to answer
  • What exactly is SPF?
  • How does it work?
  • What is the difference between a mineral and non-mineral (chemical) SPF and which is better for me?
  • How can I be more sun safe?




YOUR SPF CHEAT SHEET 

What is SPF?
SPF is a rating which stands for 'Sun Protection Factor'. It was commercially introduced sometime during the mid-60s/70s by the founder of Piz Buin, Swiss chemist Franz Greiter. 

How does SPF work?
SPF is a topical product which comes in the form of a cream, oil or mist. It is applied directly to the skin as a way of absorbing (and converting into heat) or reflecting the sun's rays. 

Why do we need SPF?
The sun (as much as we love it ) produces types of harmful radiation known as gamma rays.

A quick way to remember them is:
UVBurn
UVAgeing

1. UVB rays
UVB penetrates the epidermis, or top layer of the skin, leading to a reddening of the skin (if unprotected) and eventually sunburn

2. UVA rays
The longer and more prevalent of the two rays, UVA will penetrate the skin at a deeper level, right down to the dermis and beneath it. UVA rays cause DNA damage (at cell level). This causes the collagen within the dermis to break down and lines to form (wrinkling). Long-term exposure to UVA is one of the leading causes of ageing.

Both types of UV radiation play key roles in the development of skin cancers.


Darling, you missed a bit

Higher? Lower? (Brucey voice optional)
Wearing SPF will protect your skin from absorbing radiation (which we know can be harmful when skin is exposed over a period of time), however, the rating system currently offers a number of different 'strengths' which can be confusing. 

Did you know that there is minimal difference between the percentage of UVB rays blocked by a product labeled SPF 15 versus one labeled SPF 50? (I did not know this!)

SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays
SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays 
SPF 50+ blocks 98% of UVB rays
Source: badgerbalm.com

NB: The SPF rating can also refer to the number of minutes a person can be in the sun before they will burn. 

Broad spectrum
The majority of SPF products now state they protect against both UVB and UVA (e.g. 'Broad spectrum')  but if in doubt, check for this on the label. 

You may also come across a PA rating which is indicated by a number of '+'s (e.g. PA +++). Developed in Asia, the PA rating measures the level of protection against UVA and the more '+'s are indicated on the label the better (currently goes up to a maximum of four depending on the country. Don't ask me to explain anything else about the PA rating. The articles I've read have made my eyes go funny).

Mineral versus chemical
This is where my brain raises a very weary hand and begs to go home early. I've read oodles on this but am still unable to give you a clear 'which is better for you' answer. I'm not sure anyone can at this stage given the amount of research that is still underway (more so outside the US).

What I can do is save you the headache of researching this topic by summarising some of the key facts and findings about each below:
  • A mineral sunscreen will contain either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, or a combination of the two. Both minerals block* UV rays and are not absorbed by the skin**.
To give you an example of how mixed the information is online I've read articles which state that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide physically block or reflect the sun's rays (1, 2, 3), whilst other articles say 'zinc oxide absorbs UV and turns it into comparably harmless infrared, which it disposes of as heat.' (Source). I guess the point is it doesn't matter how the ingredients deal with the sun's rays, as long as we're protected!)
**  toxicity levels of less than 0.01% have been recorded in people using sunscreens containing zinc oxide. Small fry (pardon the pun) when compared to chemical sunscreen ingredient Oxybenzone (bad boy of the bunch) which has been found in mother's milk(!) and produced toxicity levels of a whopping 1-9%.

  • A chemical sunscreen will contain include ingredients such as:
Avobenzone (offers high UVA protection)
Octinoxate (I would avoid using this based on this article alone!)
Oxybenzone (this one regularly gets a bad rap)
Helioplex (contains avobenzone and oxybenzone and was developed by Neutrogena)
Mexoryl SX and XL (developed by L'Oreal and FDA approved in 2006)
Homosalate (used in a whopping 45% of US sunscreens, multiple concerns with this one)

Pros: 
- Unlike mineral sunscreens, chemical sunscreens do not reflect white (are generally colourless, unless part of a hybrid sunscreen) and are therefore more appealing cosmetically/aesthetically, particularly when it comes to being worn in conjunction with makeup.

Cons: 
- Application is required 20 minutes before sun exposure so the product has time for the chemicals to be absorbed by the skin.
- Can cause allergic reactions, increase the production of free radicals (bad for the skin) and disrupt hormones (I found this article really interesting. Scroll down to 'Chemical Sunscreens').
  • A hybrid sunscreen will contain a combination of mineral and chemical ingredients.

What do I think?
  • I've read enough to question whether not wearing sunscreen is the only or primary cause of skin cancer ('there is no evidence that excess sun exposure causes melanoma, while there is data showing that chronic sun exposure and vitamin D seem to prevent it'; Source). Confused? LOL.
  • There are other ways to protect oneself from UV rays (diet, covering up, seeking shade etc)
  • In terms of the key ingredients currently available zinc oxide seems to be coming out on top. Reasons include: it's mineral and therefore not absorbed by the skin (although see my note above re. 0.01%); it protects against UVB and UVA (you'll need to do your own research to discover just how much UVA protection is offered by zinc oxide but I have read that zinc oxide is more effective than titanium dioxide at protecting against UVA); is recommended for babies/toddlers and for those with sensitive skin (is non-allergenic)

Oversized sun hat, ASOS, £16

Ways to be more sun safe
  • Wear a hat (anything goes! But beware of baseball caps that don't protect the sides of your face or your neck)
  • Wear comfortable, loose fitting clothing (pref long sleeved and covering your legs somehow)
  • Where possible, sit/stand/sleep in the shade
  • Wear a high factor (SPF 30+) cream when doing outside sports
  • Give coconut oil a whirl (it has a natural SPF of 10). Just don't sit out there for hours in it!
  • Opt for fake tan!

Glossary
melanin: a brown pigment in the skin. Increases after sun exposure. Melanin protects the skin by absorbing UVB and UVA radiation, dissipating the energy as harmless heat. It can only do this up until a point (hence why we need SPF).

melanoma: a type of skin cancer

Further reading and watching
Sun, Sunscreen, Skin Cancer and Safety: How Much do You Need? (article is from 2010 but is very thorough) http://www.kitchenstewardship.com/2010/07/20/sun-sunscreen-skin-cancer-and-safety-how-much-do-you-need/

Is my sunscreen toxic?
http://draxe.com/75-of-sunscreens-are-toxic-what-to-do-instead/

The Trouble With Sunscreens
http://www.ewg.org/2015sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/

Coconut Oil - A Natural SPF
http://naturalsociety.com/ditch-toxic-sunscreen-use-coconut-oil-instead/

Lisa Eldridge's Stay Younger, Longer - the Lowdown on Sunscreens (20 min vid)
http://www.lisaeldridge.com/video/27000/youth-in-a-tube-the-lowdown-on-sunscreen/#.VcIJLOtH22w

Understanding UVA and UVB 
http://www.skincancer.org/prevention/uva-and-uvb/understanding-uva-and-uvb

Image credits: Pinterest and Shutterstock