Thursday 17 March 2016

Do men need makeup when appearing in front of the camera?



In short, yes. But not as much as you think.

A couple of Thursdays ago I was lucky enough to find myself watching the sun rise from the 35th floor of The Shard, inside the Shangri La Hotel (the view was incredible). 

Myself and a fellow makeup artist, Laura Barrow, had been booked by a lovely client of mine (a firm) to provide grooming for eight members of its senior team (one female and seven men), all of whom were due to appear on a live webinar, to be broadcast from the hotel at 8:30am.

The men were from all over...the Netherlands, the States and Ireland to name but a few. Some had had makeup applied before. For others it was their first time. As Laura and I started to prep each gentleman individually for the cameras the usual banter began: 

‘You’ll need to bring out the heavy stuff!’
‘What can you do with these eye bags?’
‘No blue eye shadow for me, thanks’ (there’s always one ;)



Not too shabby

Of course there's a macho thing at play here, regardless of one's sexuality. 

Most men don't wear makeup on a daily basis so having it applied (even moisturiser) can feel uncomfortable. If you think about it, not only does having your makeup done require you to allow a complete stranger to come into close proximity with your face, but it also requires you to experience having a number of different products applied to your skin, by someone else. Products you may not be used to. Combine that with a 'makeup is for women and never for men' attitude and you can see why some chaps find it difficult.




Later that afternoon the gentlemen were booked in to have their makeup reapplied in preparation for another webinar which was due to start at 6pm. One of the chaps had decided he'd rather not have makeup applied again and this influenced some of the others (although in the end we did manage to convince them to having some subtle concealing and powder). 

This one particular gentleman's hesitation to have makeup, having already experienced it that morning, got me thinking:

Is it the act of having makeup applied that has changed his mind or is it simply he's skeptical of its benefit?



Some of the grooming products I use on my male clients





What makeup can do
Strategically applied makeup (assuming the makeup artist is using the right products and an appropriate amount) will give a gentleman ten hours sleep when he's barely had two. 

Clever use of colour correcting concealers will gently soften dark circles (it's important not to get rid of them completely) and a light application of a product such as MAC's iconic Face and Body will turn the volume down on any redness whilst evening out the skin tone.

Before any makeup is applied, however, it is essential the skin is hydrated.  And that's the key really to good male grooming: good skin (or the appearance of good skin). Any makeup applied thereafter  needn't be heavy. In fact, when done well it should look invisible.

A good blot powder to finish will get rid of any shine and will set the makeup. This is particularly useful on gents whose hair line is receding or for those who tend to get very hot under bright lights.


What makeup can't do
No amount of makeup will drastically reduce a person's weight or shape, however, clever use of light contouring on a man will help to add definition to his face (this can quickly go wrong so it's essential to have it done by someone who knows what they're doing!!).

Whilst makeup can help imbue health and give a person the appearance of being well rested it can't get rid of genetic factors including puffy eyes or under eye bags. There are a number of products on the market, some of them specifically for men, to help de-puff the under eye area (e.g. Clinique For Men Anti Fatigue Cooling Eye Gel £24), although it's important to bear in mind this will be a subtle, quick fix as opposed to a longer term solution.

Back to whether or not the gentleman was skeptical of the makeup's benefit on the day. As a makeup artist, of course I can immediately see the effect of strategically applied makeup on a man appearing in front of a camera and under professional lighting, but for the gentleman himself the benefits may not be as immediately visible. Perhaps what he needed to see on the day was a before and after :)

What I do know is that the makeup products available today are so good a man can have them applied a) without him feeling he's wearing anything and b) without his audience noticing.

With an increasing demand for better profile shots and the need for business men and women to appear on live webinars, never before has there been more of a need to look one's best. And makeup is just a small but important tool that can help us achieve that.

Have you had a bad experience with makeup in preparation for an important work event or special occasion? What did you learn from it? Are you a gent who's had makeup applied for a TV or other recording? How did it feel? Did you notice the difference? I'd love to know.

Friday 4 March 2016

Oscars Beauty 2016: 3 simple looks worth trying today


Credit: Christopher Polk/Getty

I can't help but get very excited as the Oscars approach, racing to devour images from the red carpet as soon as I wake the morning after the night before.

But each year, I don't know, I feel slightly underwhelmed by the hair and makeup. What exactly am I expecting? Something a bit more other-wordly perhaps? Ethereal? I think it's a case of me wanting to see something I know I could never achieve on myself. But then that's the beauty of some of the looks this year. They are totally doable. Easy even.




The centre parting
I haven't worn my hair in a centre parting in, ooh, 14 years? But man do I wanna give it a go now!

On the red carpet it looked stunning. Understated, feminine and crucially, a far cry from the taught centre partings I remember from school.

I loved the fact centre partings seen on the red carpet this year were combined with a simple half up do (as seen on Brie Larson) or a breezy half bun (didn't the talent bomb that is Miss. Vikander look totally effortless? And that dress. Sigh).


Aussie beauty Margot Robbie (seen above) balanced a jaw-droppingly beautiful gold dress (Tom Ford) with a very 'undone' look, both in terms of hair and makeup. A strategic choice, well executed. If I looked half as good leaving the gym, let alone walking a red carpet...ha.

The thing to remember when considering giving the centre parting a whirl is to add body to the rest of your hair. Give it a bit of a blast with the hair dryer or maybe a light tong with the straighteners or  a curling wand. Anything that will ensure it doesn't sit flat against your head.



The kohl-rimmed eye
Lined eyes were a big feature this year, whether there to frame a smokey eye or to add definition to the upper lash line.

Many of my clients are afraid of kohl and eye pencils, concerned it will look 'too heavy' or 'too young', but they needn't worry. Lining the eyes with an eye pencil, providing it's the right shade for your skin tone/age, can look fantastic. Not only does it make your eyes stand out in pictures - a must on the red carpet, or for us mere mortals, at weddings or cocktail parties - but subtly smudged it can also look confident and alluring close up too.



Image Source: Getty / Lester Cohen

Kohl or pencil?
For those of you wondering what the key difference is between an eye pencil and a kohl here's a brief explanation:
Eye pencils are (generally) chemically produced and waxy in texture. They come in a multitude of colours. 
Kohl pencils - also known as kajal (or kaajal) - are nearly always black and find their roots in ancient formulas, usually made from soot (lead sulphide or charcoal depending on the region/culture).
In fact, kohl was originally invented thinking it would 'soothe and cleanse the eyes, protect against infections and safeguard against the harsh glare of the sun.'  (I did not know that).
More info: Wiki link.

Ahh, Lieb Schreiber. The best red carpet accessory ;)

The raspberry lip
A bold raspberry lip looks pretty amazing on any skin tone and is a great alternative to red. Naomi Watts opted for the hue and was my favourite overall look this year, I think because the raspberry shade perfectly complimented her blue dress whilst giving a subtle nod to the pink and purple detailing.





Even Rooney Mara's red lip had a raspberry feel

The thing to remember when wearing a blue-toned shade, like raspberry or a cool berry, is to cancel out any dark shadows under the eyes. It's also a good idea to conceal any areas of redness e.g. around the nose, on the cheeks or chin. Basically, you need a really good base (foundation and concealer).

Another good trick is to dial back the blush (or not wear any blush at all). Keep eyes classically defined, opting for earthy tones as opposed to any coloured eye shadows.




Before I go, did you see Charlotte Rampling this year?! Her elegance, style and natural beauty know no bounds. Poor thing got herself into a right pickle over the Oscars racism row (of course we need more diversity in film, not just in terms of race but also sex) but the excellent choice of frock must have been a bit of a relief.

Image credits: all Getty (as far as I'm able to tell from a google search)